Urban Eating

Urban Eating

Published in 'Instep Today'

31st July, 2007

By Fariha Rashed
July 14th saw the opening of a brand new Bakery and Coffee Shop in Lahore. Yes, yes, I know! ‘Another one?!’ you ask. Let me put your mind at ease. This bakery/coffee shop IS a little different for the sole reason that it ends up serving more than one purpose. If you want to know how, do read on.

The orange-ish building of ‘The Urban Chef’ is situated on main Ghazi Road in Defence. Surprisingly, it managed to quite easily cater to nearly 200 invited people at its opening, which was organized by JB & Jaws Productions. Other than the free food [something Lahoris can never resist!] there were other kinds of interesting attractions at the event. Mr. Abrar-ul-Haq, along with his family, made an appearance as the Chief Guest, and one saw him enjoying a good round of colorful cocktails and scrumptious food the coffee house-come-bakery has to offer. A nice kid from BNU called Haroon sat propelled on a stool with an acoustic guitar in hand and sang ‘Manwarai’ by Noori and ‘This Love’ by Maroon 5. The audience looked quite pleased and entertained.

As one walks into the bakery, one’s eyes are met with an abundance of color. Rows of shelves on the walls behind the counter have cans and cans of juices and soft drinks placed on them. The Urban Chef is basically divided into four floors. The basement floor is a sheesha lounge, where people can also enjoy special flavored drinks. Apparently the entire place can be booked for private functions as well. The ground floor is the bakery, and looks somewhat like Gourmet. Both bakeries also more or less offer similar items, both homemade and foreign. The first floor is the restaurant, where people can indulge in all kinds of desi and continental food. The restaurant seems to be catering to a more sophisticated and mature market. The second floor is another sitting area, where again one has access to food types such as pizza, desi dishes, and continental food. The second floor is also appropriate for small gatherings, gigs, movie shows and parties. It’s formed more like a small hall that can accommodate about 80 people.

It is nice to see that there are more traditionally styled bakeries opening up in Lahore. ‘The Urban Chef’ is affordable, stocked well with fresh eateries, and with its sheesha lounge, caters to a very important part of the population – the youth.

The Croquis Guru

The Croquis Guru

Published in 'Images' [Dawn]

July 29th 2007

By Fariha Rashed
Bilal Ashraf walks confidently through the door breaking into a warm smile as he greets me. He may be a man of short stature but his impeccable talent as a fashion illustrator renders him the tallest man alive in my eyes. I am meeting him after many years, but I remember vividly that at fashion school everyone used to envy and look up to Bilal. His fashion illustrations were by far the best in the entire school. His croquis [fashion illustrations] were always intense and flawless. He was a maestro in his field. So what has the man accomplished thus far? Well to start with, while at Pakistan School of Fashion Design, Bilal won third prize in an international fashion competition held in Belgium. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. He has gone on to accomplish much more. I see a maturity in Bilal, both with regard to his work and his demeanor that I feel must have come with extensive experience and living abroad. When talking about his work Bilal has a fire in his eyes I have rarely seen before. Passion for what he does spills over like sizzling larva all through my conversation with him. His firm hand gestures and unconscious throwing in of Arabic words here and there prove that living in Egypt for the past so many years has had a lasting influence on him. Through the course of my interview with him I found out that he is very well versed in his field. He as an artist is more then willing to impart knowledge to others and is on a constant quest for learning.

Bilal, how did you end up in Egypt?

I had no special plans to go to Cairo. I had graduated from Pakistan School of Fashion Design [PSFD] in 1999 and eventually joined the Crescent Group in Pakistan. I was offered a chance to become Brand Manager Levis for the Asia-Pacific Division and at the same time I was also offered to teach at Institute Technique de la Mode [ITM] in Cairo. The offer from Cairo came as a result of my good friend Irfan Cheema who had already been teaching there. After great contemplation I decided to go to Egypt in 2002 and I began teaching four subjects at ITM – Fashion Design, Textile Design, Accessory Design, and History of Costume. I started off teaching only Fashion Design to three batches and my students went to the principal the second day and asked that I should teach them more subjects. The main reason for my choice to leave Pakistan and move abroad was that I was bored after spending two years in the industry here. With the Crescent Group I was doing work related to garments but it was related to hard core manufacturing and had no creativity to it.

Did you face any problems teaching in a foreign land and how have you found the country so far?

It is known as the African Republic of Egypt and this country has great history. It was ruled by the French, the Ferons and then Islam. Therefore Egypt is extremely cross-cultural and it people’s features are also unique. A lot of students know French, English and German. I am teaching design oriented subjects so I do not find any communication problems with my students. My subjects are about expression of feelings more then anything else. Egyptians by nature are humble people and their thriving tourism allows them to deal very well with foreigners.

Why do you think Pakistani fashion brands are stagnant and lack branding?

For branding everything from the logo, marketing campaign, to the models used matters. A brand has to research, innovate and invent. I think Teejays is the only revolutionary brand that ever existed in Pakistan. The label played with the shalwar kameez and made it a status symbol. It broke the rules and catered to the masses. No one is doing this now. The only setback for Teejays was that it did not move with the times. Fashion is about change which is the only constant. Egypt is also a Muslim country but they dress in a Western/European style as well. They wear white gowns in their weddings and black suits in their funerals. Pakistan needs to progress with regard to new styles of dressing as well.

You started your own business in Cairo. Can you tell us a little about that?

My student Sara and I set up our own business last year. This June, we established our brand [atelier] in Cairo. We offer formals, casuals and exclusive attire with our own prints on it. Fashion, art and design are brought together under one roof by us. Sara and I are not bound by the limitations of the industry. We also have the best printers, Mario Printers, working with us. Initially they were not agreeing to print only 300 pieces for us as that is no quantity for them. However, once the owner saw our work he opened his arms to us. Sara and I named our label BSAR’AI, ‘B’ standing for Bilal of course. The reason why I started my business in Egypt and not Pakistan is because in Pakistan you can’t innovate much with the shalwar kameez. All you can do is play around with the neckline or the embellishments on the kameez. In Egypt I am getting a chance to apply all kinds of innovation to my work. I can easily play around with cuts and I have a very educated team, which largely consists of my own students. Also, I have an exceptional partner. Sara belongs to a family that owns a very large group called the Riyad Group in Egypt. This group deals in fabrication, knitwear exports etc. However, Sara wanted to follow her own dreams instead of joining her family business. She and I compliment each other completely. Our design sense and philosophy are the same. We do of course face some conflict between us at times, but I feel that is healthy. I scribble the signature of our company on all my fashion illustrations as I believe everything we do should be as a team.

How has Egypt responded to your fashion illustrations and your fashion designing?

Egypt on the whole has not been exposed to fashion illustrations much. I received a lot of compliments for my illustrations, and the most encouraging comment I got about my work was from people who said “we see ourselves in it”. Dressing has been around from the time of Adam. I believe strongly that you “wear what you are”. One must always be comfortable in what one wears. Your dressing should make you feel confident. It protects you and lets you portray yourself to the world the way you want. Illustration is also a strong form of art and it entails function, aesthetics and design sense. Art representing fashion creates style, mood and attitude. One should be able to tell the time period the illustration is set in, just by looking at it. I don’t believe that fashion and art can be separated so why not combine it with the industry as well? In Pakistan the problem is that industrialists don’t care about the designer. Take a look at United Colors of Benetton for example. They have a strong message of unity for mankind which is represented through the unity of colors. This is a good philosophy. In the same way, Gucci has sleek models, and Versace has broad models. All brands have some element which stays constant and is representative of their brand. In Pakistan there is no such sense of similarity in designing with regard to labels and brands. I think Nilofer Shahid is the only one who has a strong sense of identity. When I worked with her right after graduation, I learnt a lot. I learnt foremost to be a designer with a distinct and clear philosophy.


Are you satisfied with everything that you are currently doing?

I’m teaching, I have my own label, I’m doing my fashion illustrations – I have everything. Yes, I am very satisfied and if I stop doing even one of these things I will lose a part of myself. All aspects compliment each other.

Who are your inspirations and who do you feel you have learnt the most from in life?

Marisse who taught us pattern making and draping at fashion school is the reason why I am what I am today. She was a turning point in my life. Rashid Rana, my drawing teacher at PSFD taught me a lot too. However, learning can’t come from teachers alone. It comes from students also. I believe it is a give and take relationship. I have also learnt a lot from my partner Sara. She brings out the best in me and is one of my main sources of inspiration. We are a team and I need her input in everything. I believe people like Asif Haq, Imran Muzaffar and Ghulam Moiuddin from PSFD can truly make a difference in Pakistan. They all have a unique way of working. I also learnt a lot from Kaleem Khan and Hamid Baloch who taught me how to draw in Quetta at the Foundation of Anatomy. With regards to international renowned illustrators, Antonio Lopez who is one of the best illustrators of the world and David Downton have inspired me a lot. I think a mixture of knowledge, awareness, exposure and education are the essential ingredients for any success story, and I am lucky enough to have all of them. For me, seeing is learning, so everything I see is an inspiration. I learn from nature and nurture [culture]. I pick things from different people, store them, and utilize them best by inculcating them with my own taste.

You recently held your first fashion illustration exhibition in Cairo. Tell us a little about it, how you prepared your pieces and what kind of a reaction you received for it.

I intentionally used a lack of color in my first exhibition. I was inspired by the Chinese way of using solid black ink. It takes you in and is a very strong medium. My stroke on the paper has to be my last stroke because with ink, there is no room for correction once you make a mistake. This concept really excites me. Although it is not a very neat medium, the artist has to have a lot of control to manage it. I believe there is a strong link between being genius and mad. I also believe one should allow oneself to make mistakes as this let’s artists in particular, come out of the box and find out what they are capable of. As Picasso said, “be fearless like a child”. What he meant by this was that child’s art is fearless, bold, energetic and colorful. The child does not hold back. An artist should be fearless like a child yet controlled in his craft. I can find myself with one million chances for making a mistake while using ink. I use the same brush throughout to give strokes and therefore my brushes finish after one painting. I invent constantly while I work, challenging myself and opening doors for learning. My decisions are very quick while I paint and I find that to be the fun part of it. It was a challenge to show the feel of clothes, hair and shoes etc while using just one color. Also, with this exhibition, I did not make an intentional effort to make asymmetrical lines. This exhibition was about energy executed through intense lines and bold strokes. Fashion was transformed into illustration through this exhibition. For me, the urge to portray style, mood and attitude gave birth to an art form that has been a mode of visual expression for many exceptional individuals.

The exhibition had 30 pieces in all and I made each piece in four hours. It took me five months all together to complete them. The exhibition was inaugurated on 12th may 2007 at Sakiat-El-Sawy, situated in the heart of Cairo. This location is a very famous cultural centre in Cairo. There is something exciting happening to promote youngsters there every night. I had the good luck of acquiring a lot of big sponsors such as Mobinil [equivalent to Mobilink] and the Arab African Bank etc for my show, which went on for nine days. O Tv, a new Egyptian satellite channel by Orascom, covered the event and recorded me live at my college while I gave a demonstration to my students. Through this exhibition I wanted Egyptians to get exposed to new forms of art and fashion. As a rule, people have to be introduced to a product before they put their hands on it, which is what I planned to do through my exhibition. I sold them a philosophy which encouraged them to find out what fashion illustrations are. Once the exhibition ended I got good feedback. I was offered to do illustrations for a children’s book, designers wanted me to teach them fashion illustration, and Sakiat-El-Sawy wanted me to hold workshops at their venue.

How would you describe your own work?

Fashion is for your own self. If it’s in you, then it’s good. Whatever I do for a living is exactly how I want to live. Personally I don’t like images in which I feel the model is trying too hard. A certain feel should emanate from my illustrations. I do portray dramatic postures at times but the models have distinct expressions in their eyes.

The rest of your siblings are also artists. Why do you think all three of you pursued this particular field?

Our nana was a tailor but none of our family members were artists. Me elder brother Jawad is a photographer, and my younger brother is also doing fashion. I guess it was just meant to be!

What does the future hold for Bilal Ashraf?

I want to learn, learn and learn some more! I believe designers and industrialists need to know each other and I will strive to make that happen. Designers have to be exposed to art, and do not necessarily need to be technically educated. R&D departments are making new developments around the world; those developments are then taken to designers who use them in their collections. Subsequently famous models wear the clothes and media critics at the show give the collections coverage. Next, celebrities wear the same designs and a demand for them is triggered by the masses. Orders go back out to the industry for cost effective clothes to be made. It is a cycle that Pakistan needs to fast adopt. I plan to do whatever I can to make it happen.

Bilal, after literally hanging off the edge of his chair for an hour, sinks back and relaxes in his seat as the interview comes to an end. Taking a closer look at his work I realize that Bilal’s fashion illustrations are wild and controlled all at the same time. He has a firm grip on the medium. His strokes are both fierce and light in the right places but every piece speaks out on an individual level. The pieces look just as good up close as they do from afar. Every stroke of ink has a different emotion behind it and it almost feels like the ink is dancing across the canvas having a life of its own. There is an air of perfection in Bilal’s work. One would have to struggle very hard and long to find any mistakes whatsoever.

A Rocking Tribute

A Rocking Tribute
Published in World Music
July/August Issue

By Fariha Rashed
It was Friday the 20th of April 2007. A few friends and I found ourselves making our may to Saint Anthony’s college, situated on that long winding road called The Mall. We were enthusiastically looking forward to a fun night of loud music played by a bunch of old and young musicians that haven’t gotten together in ages. The night was largely organized by Cecil Chaudhry and Shahzad Hameed to commemorate Babar Khan, lead vocalist for the band Trip. Babar sadly died in 1997. Rumor has it that he was shot, but that claim cannot be substantiated, and therefore is at the end of the day just a rumor.

It was a beautiful night; the stars were out and the wind was blowing gently. Weather wise it couldn’t have been a more perfect day to hold a gig on. Stage and sound had been set up at one end of Saint Anthony’s roof top. The surrounding view, of the enchanting Church’s dome in particular, gave the whole ambience an air of nostalgia. The stage carried behind it three large backdrops of Babar’s smiling face. Lighting served to create a juxtaposition of brilliant colors that reflected off the backdrop and stage beautifully. Large carpets were spread across the floor in front of the stage to allow for comfortable seating. According to Shahzad Hameed prior rehearsals and set up of the equipment, stage etc took a lot of time. It’s a good thing that so much instance was invested in taking care of these details, because that’s what made the whole difference in the overall success of the gig….and a success it was indeed.

Before any of the singing began, a projector screen lit up with images of Babar through the years of his life. I thought that was a very touching display showing how much he is missed by his entire band and most musicians of Pakistan. Subsequently, the show kicked off with Shahzad Hameed who played two of his originals from his upcoming debut album. I specifically enjoyed his single ‘Fish out of Water’, which was sung by Shahzad with great fervor. He later returned on stage to play a little guitar on the song "Cocaine" and played bass on "Highway Star". What followed Shahzad’s initial performance was no less enthralling. It was the original Mind Riot consisting of Farhad Humayun on drums, Sheraz Siddiq on keyboards and Mehmood Rehman. The performance was tight and the audience loved seeing the band together again. Coven took to the stage next. The band consists of Hamza Jafri, Sikander Mufti on drums, Imran Shafiq, and Sameer Ahmed on base. Coven completely rocked the house with their energized performance. Sikandar in particular was powerful on drums. The band performed an improvised piece which blew the crowd away; whistles as well as ‘aaaah’s’ of approval could be heard resounding across the roof top.

By this point the audience was in full throttle, as were the performers, both enjoying the night immensely. The audience was reacting to musicians and the musicians were reacting to the audience’s appreciation of their skills on stage. It was a beautiful interacting to watch and be a part of. It took for Ahmed Ali Butt to bring an element of comedy to the event. He got on stage and passed a few sarcastic comments that had everyone smiling. He then went on to perform a few songs as a part of the band ‘Entity’. Once he got off stage, the original members of the band Trip came on. This was the moment everyone had been looking forward to. Cecil did a tremendous job on guitars and some of his solo portions were absolutely mind blowing. The flow of his fingers over the guitar strings was mesmerizing. I could see my friend, who was sitting right next to me, sway his head from side to side, completely lost in the moment. Various musicians came and went during Trip’s performance, each playing with them at different occasions and on different songs. The show went on into the wee hours of the night and it seemed even the audience just couldn’t get enough.

One realizes that seated in open air is always the best way to hear a live performance. Sound carries better in such an environment as it did on Saint Anthony’s spacious roof top. The sound engineers at the switch boards did a good job in controlling the levels of instruments and vocals. Also, intelligently the crowd present at the gig was invited by the organizers themselves. One saw all kinds of people from media, and the music industry. The event was not publicized on a grand scale and Cecil and Shahzad Hameed made the effort of calling people up themselves to invite them. This ensured that an interested and good group of people was there. Refreshments were available in abundance and I for one knocked back two bottles of coke during the stretch of the night.

The event started off a little late, but then the rest of the night more than made up for that initial little glitch. Overall the evening was a blazing success with some of the finest musicians Pakistan has ever produced performing together on one platform after years. It was a treat for any music lover well acquainted with the maestros. Even the Meekal Hassan Band made a five minute appearance to show their support for the cause. Unfortunately they had to rush to another gig they had lined up for the night and thus did not perform at Saint Anthony’s. Babar Khan must have been smiling down from the heavens, appreciating the show that was put up to tribute him as one of the greatest vocalists Pakistan has produced over time. I for one hope such entertaining and well organized events continue to take place on a regular basis. It warms the heart to know that Pakistanis have come quite far with regard to putting up a good show!

Review on 'Sajid & Zeeshan' Live in Lahore at LUMS. Event sponsored by Djuice, organised by LUMS Music Society & co-ordinated by Fariha Rashed.

Sajid and Zeeshan rock LUMS!
Published in 'Instep Today'

11th July, 2007

By Jazib Zahir

The dynamic duo of Sajid Ghafoor and Zeeshan Parwez descended upon the Lahore University of Management Sciences on July 7 – giving their audience a reason to let their hair down. It surely was a Saturday night well spent.

While Sajid and Zeshaan have been prominent in the Peshawar underground scene for some time and can regularly be spotted crooning on our television screens, their LUMS gig marked their live debut in Lahore! And thank goodness for that, considering the duo frequents Karachi for gigs and concerts more so than either Lahore or Islamabad.

The show was hosted in the central courtyard of the main academic building sealed by a tent in an attempt to thwart forecast showers. The organizers were students of the 'LUMS Music Society', a group of devoted amateurs keen to provide Lahore with avenues of entertainment. Telenor was the primary sponsor with the symbols of their newest service 'djuice' emblazoned around the venue. Like any show put on with a sound conscience, this one too had a humanistic bent with the crowd encouraged to 'open its hearts and empty its pockets' in support of the Agha Khan Memorial Trust fund.

Those who arrived by the designated hour were treated to the sight of Sajid and Zeeshan on stage conducting sound tests and warming up by playing short sections of their various hits. When the proceedings finally began, the audience was treated to the commendable amateur efforts of some local bands. The Aitchison College group warmed up the audience with two numbers, 'Cemetery Gates' and 'Crying in the Rain'. A group of LUMS students got the crowd bobbing its heads along with the catchy beat of a remix of Awaz's 'Jadoo Ka Charagh'. And a recent LUMS graduate, Ali Shahid, plucked the guitar while managing vocals that meshed nicely with a background flute.

Unfortunately, these early performances were plagued by long intervals since each group needed time to set up its equipment and undertake a basic sound test before it was ready to jam. Some of the amateurs also failed to account for the limitations of the electronic equipment and consequently, their crescendos were not received well by the audience. A portion of the crowd began to dwindle at this point.

Those who persisted were ultimately rewarded by the grand arrival of Sajid and Zeeshan. With their tools already meticulously tuned, Sajid and Zeeshan wasted no time in getting down to work. They announced their arrival by breaking into one of their lesser known songs, 'Free and Underestimated'. Sajid had the composed presence of a true professional behind the microphone. He strummed his guitar serenely while launching his powerful vocals at the delighted audience. He had significant command of his pitch in the presence of sensitive electronic equipment and it showed in the high fidelity of the sound produced.

This number was followed up by one more familiar to the audience, 'Freestyle Dive'. This song was distinguished by Zeeshan's contribution to the vocals, as he lifted his gaze to the heavens periodically and reverberated Sajid's words. But at no time did he desert the delicate devices at his fingertips. As the group techie, Zeeshan is responsible for all things electronic. This includes the dexterous use of the keyboard-cum-synthesizer to generate the pulsating techno beats that distinguish this brand of music. Courtesy the projector screen, members of the audience were treated to a close-up of the intricate dance of his fingers through each song. He managed to mix things up with a blend of scratches, riffs and slow beats that punctuated the beginning and end of each song.

'Deserts' allowed Sajid to exhibit his versatility as he relieved himself of the guitar strings briefly to draw a harmonica across his lips. The mellifluous chirps provided a special ingredient absent in most contemporary music forms. This song was slower and softer than the others and had the audience swaying with cell phones aloft, either to record the performance or just to generate some illumination of appreciation.

Sajid chose to swap guitars as he launched into a rendition of 'My happiness'. The audience responded with hoots of recognition. This was Sajid at his finest with this song allowing him to demonstrate the depths and flexibility of his vocal chords. Zeeshan, as always, patched in the gaps in the vocals with a jiggle of electronic beats. The lights joined the fun here, blinking and changing color to render a psychedelic touch. The encore was a stirring performance of 'King of Self' - the hit that initially launched the duo to prominence. This version was distinguished by a protracted jam that had much of the crowd swaying.

In all, Sajid and Zeeshan played seven songs while engaging in friendly chatter with the audience and fitting in a pitch for their album One Light Year at Snail Speed. They will be in town for at least a few more days so you may hear of another Lahore performance very soon. Judging by how well the performance was received at LUMS, it may not be long before the duo is ready to transition to music as a full time occupation.



--Photos by Wasim Sajid

Metamorphosis

Metamorphosis

Printed in 'Anokhi Vibe' [Canadian Magazine]

July 2007 Issue

By Fariha Rashed

Among the many students graduating yearly from Pakistan School of Fashion Design, only a few step out with a vision for the future. Mehdi, who graduated in 2001, was one of those ‘enlightened’ designers who had clear goals for himself and knew the path he would be taking in trying to establish his label. Believing that education is the backbone for every professional, Mehdi lays great emphasis and importance on fashion designers being educated in their field and qualified to do what they do. He believes that although people can learn a lot from their surroundings and have inborn talent, for the field of fashion in particular, it is essential for designers to be technically sound and possess that expertise at their fingertips. This may not have been a necessity a few years back, but now with the abundance of competition that has arisen within the Pakistani fashion industry and the growing awareness among people, it plays a vital role in determining the success or failure of any designer.

Once he graduated, Mehdi took a year of f, during which time he pursued his passion for painting, pottery-making and sculpting before eventually returning to his profession as a designer. Once he did return however, he poured his heart and soul into it. During his time off, Mehdi contemplated how he would test himself as a designer. He wanted to test not just himself, but also his sense of color, his sense of fabric and his sense of embellishment. He wanted to figure out where his strength lay. He started out by creating a collection with casual and western wear to challenge his designing abilities. He discovered that he was not only capable of coming up with a casual and western wear collection, but also a bridal wear line. He researched color and fabrics and learnt through trial and error where and how to mix and match them. He realized that no matter what, Mehdi had to be a successful brand. He is proud of his achievement and believes that he has accomplished what he set out to do.

Like all other designers, Mehdi too has certain inspirations from which he derives his collections and comes up with ideas for his garments. It is beauty from which Mehdi is most profoundly inspired and he strongly believes that beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. As a designer he finds beauty in everything. He is also stimulated by music, ‘ghazals’ being the one form of music that inspire his designing the most. The process of designing for Mehdi is almost ritualistic in nature. He has to be in the right mood and frame of mind to create and reflect his imagination in his work. Designing a collection is the most important time as opposed to when a single outfit is being created on paper. Being in the right mood allows a designer to relate one outfit to another and achieve subsequent harmony in the collection. Mehdi’s collection is the outcome of a combination of elements which surround him at the time of designing. Those may include anything from the colors around him, the music he is listening to or even nature.

Mehdi was born in Sheikhupura and has grown up between Lahore and his home town. He has a very simple, educated family which includes four brothers [including him], and one sister. ‘I love my family and I believe wherever I have reached today is due to my mother’s blessings’. Mehdi studied at Saint Mary’s School after which he joined PSFD. He remembers being quite good at his studies and topped his class. Art was something Mehdi always loved and enjoyed as a form of expression. He believes that being artistic is inborn for Shahzad and himself, as no one in their family had any interest in the field. Mehdi says ‘Shahzad and I are lucky we discovered out inner talent’. Growing up with a famous elder brother inspired Mehdi who has witnessed Ather and Shahzad be the best in their field ever since they started out. ‘I always noticed their professionalism and dedication towards their work. It is from there that I realized that hard work and dedication is the key to success. I am really proud of them’, says Mehdi. Although Mehdi is tired of being taunted about his relation to Shahzad, he does not deny for a minute that having his established brother in the fashion field is a huge help to him. He is not ashamed of it in any way and believes that anyone should embrace their sibling’s support and help, if it is available. Furthermore, no matter how much Shahzad supports Mehdi, he can only contribute to his success to a certain extent. It is a professional’s own hard work, luck and effort that will lead to his/her triumph at the end of the day. Mehdi knows that his clients come to him because of the name he has created in the industry for himself and not because he is Shahzad’s brother.

Probably one of Mehdi’s best fashion shows, and worth mentioning here, was Vanity Fair held last year in Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad. The designer showcased his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2006 collection. The show was all about vanity, carving eternal stories of passion and Mehdi’s own conception of the word beauty. Mehdi explains that he tried to make a statement regarding this word by showcasing his designs in various thematic segments. The show started off with the dazzling ‘Mystery’ segment which consisted of garments in black. Black to Mehdi is the epitome of beauty. ‘The segment was all about western wear and larger than life images’, explains the designer. Then followed the trendy casual wear and the elegant ‘sari’s’ collection. Evening wear, formal wear and bridals were next. Each segment had a cover theme and there were eight breathtaking segments in total. The cuts were simple yet suave and the flowing fabrics were embellished in a kaleidoscope of shimmering colors. The extravagant head gears, beautiful accessories and crisp make-up and styling done by Ather Shahzad all combined exquisitely to create a perfect effect. There were a total of hundred outfits which is a large number for any seasoned designer to come up with for a single show. Nineteen top models of the country strutted down the ramp, wrapped in Mehdi’s seductive creations. Among them were the stunning Iman Ali, Vaneeza Ahmed, Iraj Manzoor, Tanya Shafi, Zainab Qayyum and Meesha. Although PC management assigned to manage the event was a little on the unprofessional side with regard to starting the show on time and being courteous to guests and media people, the show itself more than made up for the initial stress that audience members had to endure. Speaking about the effort that goes into putting up a show of the scale of Vanity Fair, Mehdi says ‘I work day and night for a fashion show and I start out by determining how many outfits I need. I have to do at least a hundred sketches before I confirm the ten final sketches for one collection. It takes month to organize and finish everything and I do everything myself’. Mehdi personally buys fabric from the market for his collections and chooses the material for the embellishments also. He pays special attention to all details and has managed to secure a good relationship with his tailors and embellishers. It is by being personally involved from start to end that a designer comes up with an extraordinary and unique collection.

Mehdi has introduced a signature style of his own and has in this way supplied fresh new styles, looks and trends to the fashion scene. ‘I introduced hot and loud colors such as neon pink in my collections. I also introduced the Capri pants and short shirts. That was my signature style’. In his latest Vanity Fair collection Mehdi introduced long gowns, and he wants to show something different in every new show that he does in the future. Among the local designers, he likes Banto Kazmi’s work as he believes she adds color beautifully to bridal wear. As far as following the international forecast goes, Mehdi follows the colors that are in. However, he believes that Pakistani designers need to follow trends according to our culture’s own limitations. ‘The international forecast can be incorporated in our fashion sensibility and style’ he explains. Mehdi’s personal fashion statement is casual. He is comfortable in jeans, a t-shirt and joggers.
This year Mehdi showcased his summer collection 2007 at a fashion show that he called the ‘Viva Glam Show’. It took place at the Royal Palm in Lahore. The beautiful assortment of clothes was, as the line’s title suggests, meant to dazzle and mystify, and so it did. Mehdi received rave reviews for the show and the creative, yet very wearable collection. The capri pant seems to have replaced the shalwar once again this summer. A cool turquoise for both men and women seems to be the color Mehdi chose to introduce to the fashion conscious this summer.

Mehdi understands the importance of international exposure for Pakistani designers. He has showcased collections in Romania, the USA, and Brunei in the past. However he strongly believes that at the moment Pakistan needs fashion more than other countries do. He wants to be stable as a designer in his own country and wants to contribute in spreading awareness about fashion here. ‘I’m a proud Pakistani and before showcasing abroad, I would first take every opportunity to do shows and sell here.’ Mehdi also states that the Pakistani fashion council issue is one he does not understand. The industry is a small one and the council, if it exists, should be for the benefit of all designers. The fashion council’s main aim should be to show our talent in fashion to the world and not a power play between old and new designers. The government should encourage and help local designers be a part of international fashion fairs.

To the younger lot of designers entering the fashion industry carrying with them a bundle of doubts, Mehdi says ‘be confident’. He admits that starting out is not easy as trouble seems to come from all nooks and corners. The fashion field in particular is one where designers are thoroughly scrutinized and people criticize them a lot. Mehdi wisely advises young designers to handle the situation and negativity surrounding them as it is unavoidable. Once again he believes that with good education and know-how related to fashion and its basic rules, any aspiring designer can make it as long as he/she is confident about what they are doing. Mehdi says ‘you have to show people that you are right’. Furthermore, the Pakistani fashion industry has evolved with leaps and bounds and there is greater acceptance of fashion designing as a career than there was a few years back. It is seen as a full fledged profession. It must be pointed out that media has helped to promote fashion to a large extent. It has delivered it to the masses, who now truly understand the concept of designer wear. Initially it was only available and understandable to the elite. In the future Mehdi aspires to spread fashion all around Pakistan, and with this young, enthusiastic designer going through an amazing metamorphosis right before our very eyes, there is no doubt that he will accomplish exactly that.

Mehdi’s favorite:
Song ---- Falling Into You by Celine Dion
Scent --- Beyond Paradise
International designer --- Jean Paul Gautier
Movie --- Moulin Rouge
Hangout --- Anywhere with my family
Friend --- Myself
Color --- Black [because I can see all the shades in black]
Fabric --- Chiffon
Accessory --- Caps
Cuisine --- Thai
Fashion Magazine --- VOGUE
International Model [Male & Female] --- Naomi Campbell [female]
Arjun Rampal [male]