Friday, July 21, 2006

Setting The Stage for Bigami


Published in 'The Friday Times' [TFT]

July 21 - 27, 2007


By Fariha Rashed

In a country where there is an extreme dearth of stimulating entertainment, parallel amateur theatre comes as a relatively new, yet refreshing concept. It is in particular a welcome addition to the only place on the planet, where fashion shows are considered a source of entertainment, usually packed with an audience comprising bureaucrats and the nouveau riche. Surprisingly, media and potential buyers are seldom seen at these ‘grand events’. The clothes or designers matter little and instead the skimpily clad models, awkwardly strutting down the catwalk, are of more importance. Keeping in mind the above mentioned sad state of Pakistani entertainment, Shah Sharahbeel’s play ‘You Only Marry Twice’ came as a breath of fresh air. The man has managed to carve a niche for his theatre company called Centre Stage Productions as audiences and sponsors acknowledge his unique vision and insight. Shahrabeel has had numerous successful plays in the past, shown in Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad. His latest play was performed in Lahore’s largest hall at Al-Hamra and was sponsored by one of the leading telecommunication companies in the country, along with the Lahore Arts Council.

‘You Only Marry Twice’ is based on the farce ‘Caught in the Net’ by Ray Cooney. It centers on bigamist John Smith who has been juggling two separate families which are living in two different areas of the city. He tries desperately to keep his two wives from discovering each other, and manages to do that successfully for 18 years. However, one fine day his daughter and son, from two different wives, date on the internet and decide to meet up to discuss their fathers, who ironically have the same name and are both taxi-drivers. From then on the play takes the audience on a roller coaster ride. Twists and turns occur in the plot as it falls upon John’s best friend Stanley Gardner to try and stop the children from meeting each other. The slogan “who knew mayhem was a mouse click away” cleverly puts the play’s central theme into perspective. In essence, ‘You Only Marry Twice’ is a light play that although comical in nature, revolves around the delicacy and intricacies of relationships and marriage. The best part about watching this play was that almost every person in the audience could relate to the theme in one way or another. They saw their own reflections in the myriad of characters, and on a personal level, were able to relate to each of these character’s dilemmas.

The set, designed by Asad Zaidi who has just completed his third year at Pakistan School of Fashion Design, was cleverly constructed. Asad made use of different colors to separate two different households created on one set. Lighting and sound, managed largely by Hassan Suleman Rizwan, was effective. Hall management was on its toes at all times during the play, ready to snatch away people’s mobiles if they rang. Although many complained that this kind of treatment is oppressive, for the first time in history, a Lahori audience sat through a non-stop one hour and forty minute long play, without a single mobile ringing or a single hoot being heard from any audience member. This indeed is an accomplishment worth noting. Choreography was taken care of by the talented Atif Khan who even managed to get a stiff Ian to miraculously dance. Although the dance segment at the very end was not well synchronized, it was thoroughly entertaining none the less.

One area where Shahrabeel needs to be a little more careful is timing. The play began late each night and therefore ended late as well. Due to this, a few people with other commitments had to sadly get up and leave during the performance. Also, Al Hamra’s AC’s were not cooling the hall well enough and one could see both actors and audience members sweating and feeling uncomfortable owing to the heat. Although all actors did well on the whole, a few of them did a better job in understanding and portraying their character. Ian Eldred’s performance while playing Stanley Gardner was crisp and almost flawless. His dialogue delivery and face expressions were in sync, and his body movement accompanied by his talent to use the stage space well, served to instantly captivate audience members. He, along with Muhammad Ali Jan who played John Smith, gave energized performances day after day, as if performing the play for the first time each night. Others, including Ushna Shah [playing Vicki Smith], A’hera Mathew [playing Barbara Smith] and Shaan Lashari [playing Gavin Smith] started out a little rusty as far as voice projection and speech clarity is concerned, but they got better with each passing performance, as their confidence and comfort on stage increased. Irsa Ghazal, playing Mary Smith, and Ijlal Khan, playing Mr. Gardner, both had excellent voice projection and are competent performers on stage. While established stage and television actress Isra lent her roles emotional depth, Ijlal’s love for theatre at once came spilling through on stage, translating itself into a passionately hilarious portrayal of Mr. Gardner.

It seems Sharahbeel’s reputation for putting up quality theatre far exceeded him, as the play’s opening night instantly drew in crowds of people. By the fifth night, word had spread all across the city and the hall was suddenly jam-packed till the last day. Furthermore, hundreds of eager, young, aspiring actors were keen to audition for a part in ‘You Only Marry Twice’. Sharabeel, as the director of the play, explains that “there are a few basic things that have to be kept in mind when choosing actors for particular roles during auditions. These include compatibility with the rest of the cast, voice projection and appearance.” Rehearsals, according to Muhammad Ali Jan, “went on for two whole months…..stretching at times till three in the morning.” Sharahbeel is most respected by his team for encouraging new talent and giving them a platform on which to prove themselves and show their potential. Mudassir Sheikh, a senior undergrad at LUMS and an RJ in his spare time, acted as everything from the Assistant Director, Media Coordinator, Presenter, Props In Charge, Production Manager to being involved in Backstage Management. He says “this experience has given me great exposure; great fun, great new friends and I have managed to learn a lot”. Ian Eldred who is known to be a master of improvisation on stage, adding a dozen extra ‘bloody’s’ to his lines in the play, exclaims “this experience has given me access to bloody good food, every single night, on the house!” Apparently the whole cast was treated to scrumptious food at various restaurants across Lahore. Ian also feels that working in Shahrabeel’s play cannot be compared to working with any other director in Pakistan. Shahrabeel’s motto as a director is “discipline, hard work, and passion”, to which his whole cast chants “discipline is an understatement!”

It is strongly felt by the cast members and by Shahrabeel himself, that the responsibility to encourage the efforts of young, amateur talent that has put in hours and hours of hard work to bring twelve consecutive nights of thrilling entertainment to the people of Lahore falls upon the shoulders of the media. Healthy criticism is always appreciated by actors, who feel they can learn from it and improve where they are lacking. However, reviews should not carry criticism for the sake of criticism and praise should be given where it is due. It is commendable that these youngsters and Shahrabeel, even in the face of poor tradition and infrastructure when it comes to theatre, have brought to Pakistan a new form of praiseworthy drama. The government and the corporate sector should work together to nurture this budding theatre culture and create an atmosphere where it can blossom further.

Sunday, March 26, 2006

International or citywide?

International or citywide?
Published in Instep [The News]
Sunday 26th March, 2006

The 2nd International Fashion Festival Awards, were far from being international, but they are a step forward all the same

By Fariha Rashed
As glamorous fashion events have suddenly come into vogue in Pakistan, so have giving out awards to acknowledge the great talent inherent in these fields. Lahore was once again highlighted as a potential international fashion ground, as Kamber Entertainment Group organized the second International Fashion Festival Awards 2006 from March 15th to 18th at the Pearl Continental Hotel. It was last year in April, that two Lahore based designers Salina–Wardah held the first fashion awards, aiming at putting the vibrant city of Lahore on the map of the fashion world. A great deal of hype and excitement had been created prior to the beginning of this festival, with well known fashion labels such as HSY, Karma, Lajwanti, Nabeel Aqeel, Walid Atallah, Amna Malik, Arshad's and many more participating.
Kamber Entertainment's Vice Chairman Syed Rehan Ahmed, who is a Dubai based businessman and designer, rightly pointed out that the Pakistani fashion industry is unfortunately controlled by a few names, that do not appreciate or let budding fashion designers and models come to the forefront, or share the limelight with them. Ahmed says he wants to genuinely help the Pakistani fashion scene flourish at the international level and holding such events is his way of accomplishing just that and at the same time, encouraging upcoming talent. It is pertinent to mention at this point however, that of the 20 international countries that were meant to participate in the festival, only a given few were present.
The International Fashion Festival took place at the spacious yet sophisticated Crystal Hall at Hotel Pearl Continental, Lahore. As people made their way in, they were met with various colorful stalls spread across the sides of the room. A long white ramp at the centre ran, like a slithering snake, from one end of the Crystal Hall to the other. The stalls were abundantly laid out with formal and informal clothes displayed either on mannequins or hung on racks, and accessories such as shoes, bags, belts and other fashion-related items, lying decoratively on tables. Each designer displayed the latest trends and their newest collections. Karma's stall was very well equipped, with three or four representatives for the label available at all times, incase anyone wanted information about Karma designs. There was a multimedia screen in the background running Karma fashion shows constantly. Even Maheen and Kami made an appearance once or twice to check up on things and meet potential buyers. Designer Walid Atallah had his catalogue available for viewing, as well as some beautiful white dresses from his couture line, displayed on mannequins. Chic Wear House, headed by Malaysian educated fashion designer Imran, had its women's and men's wear collection on display. The designer himself was seated very comfortably and rather quietly at his stall throughout the festival. However, strangely enough it was his PR person who gave any necessary information to curious passers by.
Other than fashion designers, cosmetic companies such as Cosmetica and Diana of London had a wide variety of luscious make up items in a number of colors available for purchasing and sampling on the spot. As we all know, beautification is the most important thing for a woman. Therefore, it was no surprise to see, that a bunch of ladies were found, every now and then, huddled all around the cosmetic stalls, testing products and giggling away as they saw themselves transformed when they peeped into mirrors. Also, SAAI Concepts, headed by designer Sahar Atif had displayed among other things, a myriad of beautifully crafted steel decorations such as small chests, in hues of greens and blues. Other items on display by them were scented candles, exotic looking cushion covers, steel coasters beaded jewelry and clothes.
Although excitingly enough, models from Germany, Greece, Cyprus, Hungry, Philippines, Romania, Norway, Dubai, Italy, Australia, Belgium, India, South Africa, Kenya and Bulgaria were expected to catwalk at the show, one only saw a handful of models from a very few of these countries actually on the ramp and that also for a very short period of time. The fashion shows on both the 16 and 17 March were held at 7:30 pm after the exhibition had wrapped up.
Four exclusive models from Ukraine, Lithuania, Azerbaijan and Uzbekistan also took part in the fashion show on March 16. Pakistani models showing off designer clothes on the ramp included Hina, Aleena, Mehreen Syed, Neha, Sara Gillani, Seemab and Sanam. Male models included Gul Danyal, Emad, Naeem Haq and Meekal, who was appreciated on the first day, but was not seen the next day among the male models. A few unknown models also appeared in Nabeel & Aqeel's segment, which managed to surprise the audience quite a bit.
As always, the awards were the highlight and climax of the whole fashion festival. National Assembly member Riaz Fatyana was the guest of honour. What was a little disturbing was the fact that at the awards ceremony, many people had to stand outside the crystal hall, as passes distributed to the public exceeded the seating capacity. Even inside the hall, several guests had to watch while standing since they had no seats allotted to them. The award categories included best smile, best photogenic face, best model, best designer and best formal and informal dresses. The jurors making all the decisions about who won the many awards included the likes of Yusuf Salahuddin, Wasim Akram, Moammer Rana, Yahsir Waheed, Aaminah Haque, Vaneeza Ahmed and Khanito, Lebanese choreographer and adjudicator.
On the whole and in circumspect, the Second International Fashion Festival went off well. Many of the products were sold out and media coverage was at its height. However, it was a little sad to observe that the turnout of people was a little less than expected, and the response of buyers was minimal. It did not come up to the expectations of many. Compared to the first fashion festival held last year, people seemed less enthusiastic to attend or display their work at this particular fashion forum. Perhaps better organization and marketing of the whole festival will encourage a higher attendance, more sales and better participation by designers next year.

Sunday, March 19, 2006

The New Age

The New Age
Music & the Internet

Published in Images [DAWN]
Sunday, 19th March, 2006


With the sudden explosion of the internet in Pakistan, a fresh and innovative channel has opened its doors to the local music industry. It has managed to reel in a new age and new form of listening to music. The lack of any rules and regulations for internet usage means that people from all age groups find “cheap” and “comprehensive” entertainment through the World Wide Web. Furthermore, marketing through the net ends up being much cheaper than it is through other mediums and therefore, underground bands which are not financially strong find it a cost-effective way of advertising their music.

It is safe to say that an internet presence has become compulsory for any musician who wants to make his or her mark in the market. It also allows our local musicians easy access to the world market, since the World Wide Web has now become “a global business directory”, as Mr. Arshad Mahmud, Editor of World Music Magazine and Director Programs of NAPA very rightly points out. Much to their glee, the Pakistani communities abroad can also now listen to [and to some extent directly participate in] the local music scene. Their “jazba” for their country can be manifested through their active participation by way of the internet. It is avenues such as “blogs”, “discussion forums”, “communities on Orkut”, “webzines”, “ezines”, “music portals”, “and yahoo groups”, which are available to the global community for this very purpose. The much visited and talked about Orkut for example, is an online community site designed for friends. The main goal of their service is to make the visitor’s social life, and that of their friends, more active and stimulating. One can also create and join a wide variety of online communities which have been launched by the myriad music bands, artists, producers, and directors which make up the Pakistani Music Industry. Orkut to some of the upcoming music artists has become a marketing haven and self promotional platform. Every important TV Channel, radio station and music website has a community on Orkut and it provides the added advantage of having the presence of an international audience. Therefore, one can almost immediately gage the importance Orkut possesses in the bigger picture of things. Other than Orkut though, one of the most visited music oriented e-zines is called Bandbaj.org, and as their writer and PR Manager Huma Imtiaz explains “Bandbaja was one of the first e-zines that came up with comprehensive reviews and interviews that took a fresh look at the state of affairs in the music industry. Not only that but we have promoted a lot of artists that were being ignored elsewhere”. E-zines are online versions of music magazines that can be viewed by anyone in the world.

I feel that an apt description of the relationship between the internet and music is best described by Mr. Adeel, owner of the popular online entertainment e-zine DesiTwist: “It is plug-and-play, turn on your favorite music website, download and/or play the track”. The truth is that the internet is having a “label – breaking” effect on society. This is a medium which anyone, anywhere can use to voice their opinions, to listen to or watch what they want. With its advent, we are no longer an “isolated” society. Furthermore, limitations of time have also been countered by the internet. Music is available at your fingertips “when” you want it … unlike TV and radio channels where you have to wait for a specific program to be aired. Cellular technology has also supported this explosion of access to music; you can use your mobile phone to use the internet and listen to the latest music. However, there are some negatives to the whole scenario also. With the use of the internet comes a sense of responsibility on the part of the website administrators – to ensure that only those singles and albums are made available for download which the musician has given permission for. The wide availability of unreleased music leads to decreased album sales for the musicians. As says Mr. Arshad Mahmud of World Music Magazine: “The only download sites which are popular are the sites which offer free downloads. We some how never acquired and acknowledged the responsibility of spending money on entertainment”.

Another infamous creation of the internet is the internet radio station, which has become popular because of the wide variety of music it offers and the relative lack of commercials it airs. Listeners can also customize play lists to their own liking, thus giving them greater freedom than ever before. There is FM Mast 103.com, FM 100, City FM 89 and a few other internet radio sites for the Pakistani youth to listen to.

Although TV and radio are also important modes of communication for the music industry, the internet I feel is the medium of the future. It has no limitations and can be accessed from anywhere in the world at any time of the day. Furthermore the availability of constant updates and downloadable material online is unprecedented. One can be linked and have instant access to the ‘going-ons’ of the local music industry, sitting at literally any location on the globe. However, it is important to note that with all the freedom it enjoys, the electronic media also has a responsibility to promote and project our music industry and a more “liberal” way of thinking. This is the only means for our industry to evolve and make a name for itself internationally.


By: Fariha Rashed.

Monday, February 27, 2006

Round is a shape. I am in shape.


"Round is a shape. I am in shape"
Published in 'YOU' [The News]
21st February, 2006.
By Fariha Rashed

A curvaceous and fuller bodied woman has as much a right to wear elegant and fashionable clothes as a perfect size 12 woman

More than half the women in Pakistan fit into plus size outfits but you won't find a single local, ready-to-wear designer creating clothes for larger women, or even thinking on those lines for that matter. This is quite a shame because I believe as a designer you need to research your market not just in terms of what colour, style or fit people prefer but also with regard to what sizes they can wear and what the average woman's size really is! The Asian figure is fuller and the average size for a Pakistani woman in particular is in the range of 14 to 16. There is also a large and rapidly growing plus-size teen market on the horizon. I am sure if our local designers go with public requirements, they will receive an overwhelming demand for plus-sized clothing in the market.

The idea that the Pakistani designers cater to this largely overlooked chunk of the market is not only an appealing idea but also a smart business move. The trick is not to just make plus-sized garments, but also to design them in a way that is stylish, chic and trendy. Slightly plump or overweight people also want to feel and look good in what they wear and feel satisfied with their image. Finding the right fashionable plus-size clothes for themselves can help them do just that and avoid feeling like 'outsiders'. It becomes a kind of 'body-image therapy' for them. They would willingly spend large amounts of money to buy trendy alternatives than wearing baggy clothes that hide their bodies and do nothing for their self-esteem.

Abroad, outlets such as The Gap, Banana Republic and Old Navy, J.C Penny, Sears, Nordstrom and many more, all offer extended sizes. Even the celebrities pitch in. Hip-hop star Nelly has launched her own label called 'Apple Bottoms' for larger, broader and fuller-bodied women. J.Lo started her fashion company 'Sweetface' in 2004, also catering to plus-size women and to everyone's astonishment, her company grossed over $130 million that year. All these companies and stars have shrewdly recognized that the women's plus-size market is currently the fastest growing segment of the apparel industry. They have tapped into it by making the necessary expansion in size variations.

Local designers offer no such options for larger Pakistani women. As a result, they are forced to buy imported garments. Pregnant women can't walk into any fashion outlet and pull out a smart and fashionable maternity dress for themselves. Due to this lack of choice, pregnant ladies continue wearing baggy and shapeless clothes that hang off of them like dough drooping off a wooden rod. They feel undeserving and fat who don't have the right to look good because they are suddenly shunned from 'fashion'.

I believe the wind of change and opportunity is blowing our way and our designers should make use of it. They need to stop depriving the plus-size market of the fresh and fashionable options afforded to their "average" sized counterparts.

Having an outlet in Y-Block, Defence or on Main Boulevard is no justification for the ridiculously high prices designers charge for the limited variety in sizes they offer. They should expand their target market and cater to all sizes, which will automatically increase demand and ultimately result in profit. I am positive the response to this strategy will be overwhelming for designers and they will become the 'advocates of change'. There is nothing like a happy and satisfied customer, even if that customer isn't a "perfect" and petite size 12.

Link: http://www.jang.com.pk/thenews/feb2006-weekly/you-21-02-2006/index.html

Saturday, February 11, 2006

The Mafia.


The Mafia
Published at Chowk.com
Link: http://www.chowk.com/show_article.cgi?aid=00006143&channel=chaathouse
10th February, 2006.

To understand the word mafia in the context in which I am referring to it in this article, one must first specify its dictionary meaning, which is “a close-knit or influential group of people who work together and protect one another’s interests or the interests of a particular person.”

In almost very field of entertainment in Pakistan, sly workings of a tight knit group of people appear to be at work, who end up benefiting from a large chunk of the gains from that industry. This group is called a mafia and they do their best to make sure that no bustling new talent trying to break into the industry makes it very far without their help or without going through them first. In the same way the music industry has also been plagued by a similar mafia that includes a cluster of people ranging from directors, choreographers, heads of record labels, event managers to even VJs from various music channels. They form an understanding among themselves to exclusively support and work with each other in order to capture the entire market and safeguard each others interests. They end up monopolizing the industry and all work is conveniently supplied to them alone. There is also a great deal of pathetic exploitation taking place by various parties in the music industry of unsuspecting new artists coming onto the scene.

This ‘hardcore mafia’ hangs out at all important events and parties taking place in Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad. They usually comprise of a group of people already very well known and established in the music industry. Since Pakistan does not yet have suitable organizations to promote and market artists the way they do in the west, this ‘mafia’ takes over that crucial role in a negative and rather oppressive way. Record labels, for example, are scarce in Pakistan, but the ones that exist are very well established and have been running their manufacturing factories of CDs, tapes and DVDs since a very long time now. They are equipped with all the relevant contacts to back them and an abundance of finances which allows them to perpetually stay at the top of the game. They are not worried about competition because they know the competition would have a tough time against their esteemed success and power built out of sheer monopoly rather than through the dissemination of quality products.

Tragically record companies do not offer the artists whose albums they plan to release a whole lot to chew on in terms of incentives and support. Artists get no royalty on the sale of their CDs and cassettes and the record label offers the minimum amount of marketing for them and for the promotion or launch of their album. Coming out with a video to support the release of the album is also the artist’s own headache. The sad part is that the record label knows it can get away with this half hearted and almost unfair offer that it unjustly ‘grants’ the artists, because it realizes that it has no particular competition in the market. This lack of available competition in turn, ensures that the artists will turn to no one else for the release of their music.

An artist has to have and has to continue building a good rapport with the owners of the record labels who often have absolutely no idea about music. They only view the album as a product from which they want to gain maximum profit for themselves. They are least bothered about the quality of work or genre of music they promote. I think that if there was good and healthy competition for these already well established record companies that offered much better incentives and quality to artists, this mafia like condition would be done away with and our artists would feel more encouraged, optimistic, secure and motivated. Our music industry would flourish too!

Furthermore music directors often ask for ridiculously exorbitant sums from new artists to direct relatively easy videos, knowing that the musicians could not possibly afford that kind of a budget at an early stage in their career. As if that isn’t enough, they also insist that they will only work with particular choreographers, designers and make up artists who all come together as a package and thus form that dreaded mafia [once again]. Taking it one step further, when companies agree to sponsor a video for an upcoming musician, they too stress on the use of the same mafia of directors, make up artists, choreographers and so on. Every step becomes interlinked and dependant on the other and the music artist finds himself/herself confined and compelled to work with the same people that everyone else has worked with. It’s almost like eating the same dish of food every single day of your life, even if it starts rotting or becoming stale.

RECIPE FOR SUCCESS!
If you happen go to parties and ‘get-togethers’ anywhere in Pakistan, you will see the same faces over and over again almost like a serious case of ‘deja-vu’ happening right before your very eyes. You want to know why? Because if you want to be a success in any industry related to entertainment in Pakistan, you have to be seen at all these events and you must fit in and rub shoulders with important people. If you are a musician and the director of your next video invites you to a party, you have to go, or you take the risk of losing his interest in doing your work. If you’re an upcoming, budding music artist striving to be a huge success, more than making great music, you have to hang out with the ‘plastic mafia’ that helps shape and determine how painlessly or painfully you move forwards with your career as a musician, and with what speed. If you want your video aired relentlessly on the few music channels that there are in Pakistan, star one of the VJs in it and watch it magically enter into the charts and shoot to one of the top spots. You may even win an award for it! Better yet, just party with the VJs all night long and you’ll then be guaranteed an amazing airing on all shows on the channel that they work for. If you want your video or song to be nominated in the ‘prestigious’ Music Awards, make sure you get the ‘mafia’ behind you and don’t forget to thank them when you win and pit pat onto the stage to receive your award; and if you are a talented, new director trying to get a foothold in the music industry and create a name for yourself, you won’t be able to do it without the help, involvement or support of the ‘big fish’ already in control of the whole video making scene. It’s a jungle out there and every time I think of how our music industry has been overtaken by a few control freaks that can’t see anyone else succeed or rise to the top without their consent or direct involvement, I am reminded of the Italian mob (mafia)….and it scares me. I fear a bloodbath coming our way very soon.

By: Fariha Rashed
Chowk link: http://www.chowk.com/show_article.cgi?aid=00006143&channel=chaathouse

Friday, February 10, 2006

Step into Maria's World.


Step into Maria’s World
Published in Fashion Collection-Annual Issue 2006.
Issue No. 103

I can’t explain this as anything else but one of the most relaxed and casual interviews I have ever taken and that also of such a well known and respected designer as Maria. B. As I sat at her comfortable home in Lahore, sipping on deliciously hot, pink colored ‘kashmiri chai’, Maria and I broke into an easy conversation about her life, career and experiences in the fashion industry. The best part of the whole ambiance was the presence of her baby daughter Fatima, who kept the mood alive with her occasional little shrieks of excitement and naughty antics throughout
the stretch of the interview. Step into Maria. B’s world.

What is your qualification as a designer?

I graduated from PSFD. Before that I did my A Levels from Karachi Grammar School. After fashion school I went straight into work.
When did you decided to create the label MARIA.B and why?I decided in second year at PSFD. I didn’t want to start something from the home or do just bridal. I wanted to reach out to people and have fashion and street wear accessible to everybody. Before we started there was just Neepunhal and Generation and nothing else. I feel there is still nothing else. I wanted to reach out to as many people as I could and if I would have just stuck to bridal wear I would have been limited. At the end of the day I had a greater purpose where I wanted to sort of revolutionize fashion.
Which countries besides Pakistan does MARIA.B cater to?
We have an Asian clientele whether it’s in the UK, US, Netherlands, Pakistan or India for that matter. Not only that, but recently some people said that my clothes work very well for the Arab women because they want trendy stuff like bootleg pants and short shirts. That’s the market I especially want to expand into, the Muslim belt of countries.

What was it like to be the first Pakistani to win an international fashion competition?
It was surreal. I was a part of the first batch of PSFD students going to Belgium and I remember thinking to myself very casually “ok so we are just going to be one of the 50 countries there and probably won’t win anyway”. The experience was amazing though because I got selected to participate on the basis of my portfolio and the judges actually said that mine was the best portfolio they had seen so far.

How has winning that competition helped you since?
It made a difference in the beginning because it gave me a lot of confidence. I thought if I can win by going to Belgium and competing with students from fashion schools from all over the world and make my own impact in the process, then I can do anything. It gave me a high and encouraged me to start something of my own. If you look at the Pakistani fashion industry, unfortunately people just want to play down achievements. There are these older designers that are just hanging onto their ‘glory’ and when I first came in to the scene they wanted to literally rip me apart. Not only me, but even today they want to put all the younger designers like Nomi Ansari, Karma and Usman Dittu down also because they are insecure and can’t handle any competition in the market. However I am above all that now and it doesn’t upset me as I realize it’s all part of the game.

What range of garments does MARIA.B offer to women?
I do everything from casuals, semi-formal party wear, formals to bridals. The casuals and formals include the prĂȘt a porter [ready to wear] line and then the couture [high fashion] bridal line and are totally separate. I did Western wear for a while but that’s not my particular clientele. My clientele would occasionally wear the sleeveless or short shirt but 85% of them wouldn’t. When one is catering to a large group of people, these restrictions do creep in and they should be taken as a challenge. When you’re retailing in the market as a designer you can’t afford to make choices for the client. You have to give your client what they want otherwise you fail. My casuals range from Rs. 900 to Rs. 3000. My semi-formal party-wear ranges from Rs. 3000 to Rs. 6000 and the formals start from Rs. 10, 000 onwards. Bridals start from 70, 000 onwards.

Why have you decided to only stick to women’s wear?
Since I have had a baby I really want to get into children’s wear and there is such a huge market for it. Sadly, I do not have time to go into that kind of production. Designing is not a problem for me but production is, as controlling the labor is a huge responsibility. However, I would love to go for it in the future as I know I have a feel for it and ridiculously there is no choice for children’s wear in Pakistan. Mothers have to shop abroad for their kids.

What is MARIA. B’s design philosophy?
My design philosophy is generally centered on my belief in fusion. I am a big believer in fusion and gelling together of Eastern and Western influences so that I can come up with something that is internationally viable. The designing however should not be overbearingly Western or overbearingly Eastern. There needs to be a perfect balance. Furthermore I want my clothes to be different and have a certain mark in the market. They should instantly be recognized as Maria .B outfits by customers and I try to follow the latest trends to achieve that uniqueness.

What do you believe the woman of today desires in a wardrobe and what kind of an image do your clothes help her to portray of herself?
I think above all else the woman of today desires functionality and also to have some sort of an edge in her style of dressing. She does not want to look like everyone else. My clothes follow the international trends and I feel that they help the woman of today portray herself as ‘one in a million’ wearing signature clothing.

You have a bridal couture line. How do you define ‘couture’?
Couture is made to measure and it is created on order. It has the element of exclusivity. In Pakistan bridal wear or formal wear is called couture, but true couture is something that a designer designs for the first time for somebody in their own measurement and it is the only garment of its kind. That is a rare phenomenon in Pakistan at the moment but it does happen.

Who does the make-up and grooming for your shoots?
The two or three make-up artists that I have worked with are all fabulous and I choose them according to the nature of the shoot. I have a good idea now about which make-up artist [or photographer for that matter] would do well with which theme.

How important do you think it is for a designer to have photo shoots appear in magazines/publications regularly? Why?
It is extremely important because as a designer I am selling an image. It is a form of marketing and because we always put so much stress on this aspect of marketing ourselves, the Maria.B label became a big name in just two years. We were actually building our brand through constant shoots in magazines and now a Maria.B shoot is recognized instantly by people.

How have you grown as a designer in the last 4 years?
I have learnt a lot. When I was in college I had these huge dreams and I told myself I would make all kinds of clothes and be very experimental but now I know it doesn’t work. You have to create what sells and I learnt that the hard way. At the end of the day market forces are what drive the designer. You have to make your mark and give your clothes that special edge within the confines of those forces.

How old is your baby and what is her name? Do you find it difficult to balance your personal life with your career?
My baby is called Fatima and she’s a year and a half. She’s completely changed my life and made me realize that nothing is as important as her.

Which is your most memorable fashion show and why?
It is the Paris collection because the scale was very big and I hardly get to show western clothes in Pakistan. My whole Paris collection was western wear. I enjoyed it for the freedom I had.

Do you think an education in fashion is absolutely necessary for a designer? Why?
Yes, pretty much. Aesthetically I don’t think anyone can teach you anything. Either you have it or you don’t. However, if as a designer I am not technically educated then the stitcher, cutter and other people that work for me will not respect me too much as a designer and I won’t be able to guide them properly. They would take me for a ride if I didn’t know anything about the technicality of making a garment. Therefore it makes a huge difference. Do you have an accessory line? What kind?I have started an accessory line and I have hired a girl for that. She has studied Accessory Design from FIT in the States. We have a completely separate accessory department with shoes and bags now.

What is the process you go through while designing a complete line for a season?
I first think of a theme for the next season and then I think of the print and get that made. Then the silhouette and the color palette are decided and finally I do the designing.

What kind of fabrics do you use?
I work with all kinds. For casuals I use ‘khadars’, cottons, lawns and ‘marina’. For semi-formals I use silks, georgettes, ‘jamawars’ and chiffons [as well as other transparent fabrics].

If you were not a designer, what would you have liked to be?
I would have been a nuclear scientist because I loved physics and I wanted to do nuclear physics. I applied at a University in Houston [America] but my cousin who was studying there told me that as a Muslim I wouldn’t be able to study it in the States.

Which local designers do you think are doing a good job?
Out of the older lot I love Imrana [Body Focus] from Karachi and Seher Saigal in Lahore. I think she is a true entrepreneur. I also like the eccentricity of Zubair Kuman. In the younger lot I like Karma and Nomi Ansari. Do you think having an online presence (website) is important for designers?Yes it is, and although we have one I have neglected it because I don’t have the time and I need people to manage it. A lot of our customers wanted us to have online sales but I have not gotten to that yet as far as an e-service is concerned where the customer can just click on the garment they want and choose the size.

How do you dress personally? What is your fashion statement?
I am very whimsical. I get sick of looking one way constantly and I need change. I dress according to my mood. I also mix and match a lot and I always design something that I myself would wear.

Link: http://www.fashioncollection.com.pk/html/interview3.htm

By: Fariha Rashed

Saturday, January 21, 2006

The Last Poem


The Last Poem

It started out as a sad tale regarding a severe phobia of death, and ended up being about a poem that saved me.

Sometimes while I lie in bed at night gazing up to where I know there is a ceiling, but being able to see nothing but darkness with the lights turned off, I think about death. The very thought sends shudders up my spine and an overwhelming sensation of fear grips me. I lie there like a log wondering what happens to us when we die. All kinds of peculiar questions arise in my mind such as ‘do we undergo a transition from being living, breathing human beings to becoming mere souls floating about without purpose in space?’ or ‘do we become pure energy and unite with the Universe?’ I ponder over whether heaven and hell exist as we have stereotypically imagined tem to be and mind you, do we actually get to meet God after hearing about him for so long? What in God’s name [excuse the pun] will I say to the big ‘G’? Will I tell him I’m sorry for being a naughty child or will I ask for forgiveness for stealing my friend’s rather nice looking pen when I was in eighth grade? I think I should just shut up and let him do all the talking.

You must be wondering by now where this article is leading and why I feel its ‘My Story’. Well, let me take you back to December 7th, 1998 when my father passed away suddenly, and things might get a little clearer. It was the saddest, most horrific day of my life as my father meant the world to me, my mother and my sister. He was the pillar of strength on which we all rested and relied. Unfortunately, he had been admitted in the hospital in Uzbekistan the night before, after undergoing his second heart attack in eight months. The doctors managed to stabilize him but decided to keep him overnight, under observation in the hospital. My sister, mother and I therefore made our way home for the night, expecting to see him the next morning. However something just wasn’t right, as I had a sudden feeling of depression as I walked out of the hospital door. I lay in bed and drifted off to sleep with an uncomfortable feeling deep inside. I suddenly found myself snapped out of sleep by a dreadful feeling and I sprung off the bed unable to understand what was happening. I instinctively turned my head towards the window sill where I found myself gazing straight at my father’s smiling picture and right next to it I vaguely remember seeing the clock strike 5 a.m. Rather confused and shook up, I made my way back to the bed and fell asleep eventually. The next morning we found out that my father had died at 5 a.m. from a third heart attack and I believe my waking up at that precise moment was not a coincidence.

My father’s demise managed to develop in me a phobia about death which became unshakable. I lay in bed day in and day out the way I have described above, driving myself to the point of insanity. Death and its mystery became my obsession. They say time heals all wounds and although it did to some extent decrease my pain, it could not convince my mind to stop its fixation on our ultimate end as human beings. However, the most extraordinary thing happened a few years after my father’s death which eased my mind a great deal. We unexpectedly found a poem that he had written in the hospital right before he died. In it he described the angels in white that were coming to take him away to a wonderful place of peace. The poem had not been titled and I named it ‘The Last Poem’.

After uncovering that poem, all I know now is that this thing called death is inevitable and I have got to face up to it. I know for sure that even though my father has physically left this world, he lives spiritually, continuing to discipline me. The part that had really gotten to me the most when my father died, was the actual time of death; the slipping away from reality, entering an unknown, unseen realm, in a totally new form of oneself. I had envisioned it to be scary, but I now believe it will be a completely comfortable and pleasant sensation. It could end up being the best feeling in the world as my father described it to be in his last poem.

I do believe in God and I have faith in my religion, but it is a very natural feeling for us humans to be afraid of the unknown. To me life is just a temporary phase of a bigger scenario. It is a precious gift given to us which we must cherish, for it will never be given to us again. I don’t know if time ever stops or just goes on forever, but I do believe that after death, the place where we all go to, will have no concept of time. So “forever” is what we’ll be in our new state of being. My father had meant for me to find his last poem and I look forward to seeing him again, on the other side.

By: Fariha Rashed

Saturday, January 07, 2006

The Ajoka Awakening

The Ajoka awakening
COVER STORY
Published in 'Images' [DAWN]
October 16th, 2005

By FARIHA RASHED
lt seems like a crime that an institution of the calibre of Ajoka Theatre has its main office in Lahore hidden away at the very end of an almost invisible gali in the main Cantt area. However, upon entering the cozy and inviting setup, the very air carries with it the determination and resolve to bring about change.Seated with the driving force behind Ajoka, Madeeha Gauhar, she spends hours talking about her life as a political activist, a TV celebrity, the founder of Ajoka Theatre and then becoming its artistic director.Born in Karachi in 1956 and still carrying wonderful memories of the city, Madeeha has spent most of her life in Lahore. Her father, Ali Gauhar, a Peshawar-born, Persian-speaking army officer died when Madeeha was only 14 years old. Her mother, Khadijah, born to a Gujrati speaking family from Bharauch, India, was, in her words, “a dedicated socialist, fearless writer, committed human rights activist and an untiring social worker.”She was of great inspiration to Madeeha who now feels that her political consciousness stems from observing her mother’s interaction with journalists and political activists, “My mother always encouraged me to form Ajoka when Gen Ziaul Haq’s rule was at its oppressive peak.” Her mother faced disapproval for Madeeha’s career choice from relatives who were shocked and upset, but even in the face of such opposition she pushed her daughter forward. Together with her sister, Faryal Gauhar, also an actress, Madeeha formed a small group of women who had the courage to take up acting in a society where music and dance were and are still prohibited in certain regions.In 2002, Madeeha received recognition and was awarded the Tamgha-i-Imtiaz by the Pakistan government. Furthermore, Ajoka was invited to perform the play Aik Thi Nani at the London Theatre Festival along with the other participating countries. The play was also well-received in India and is one of Ajoka’s few Urdu plays, most of them being in Punjabi. Aik Thi Nani, according to one of Ajoka’s flyers, is ‘inspired by the true life story of two extraordinary sisters, Zohra Segal and Uzra Butt. After Partition, Uzra migrated to Pakistan and Zohra stayed back. This play, especially written for the sisters by playwright Shahid Nadeem, brought them together on one stage after four decades. The play was first performed in 1993 and has since toured India twice and the UK’.Madeeha studied at the Convent of Jesus and Mary Lahore, and then acquired her B.A from Kinnaird College where she was also the president of the Najmuddin Dramatic Society. It was here that her skill and expertise as an insightful actress was honed. Later, as the secretary of the Government College Dramatic Society, she took part in an anti-establishment play which ruffled quite a few feathers. At 17, she acted in her first TV serial, Zanjeer (Chain), by Anwar Sajjad. After doing her Masters in English Literature from Government College Lahore, Madeeha taught at a government women’s college and then joined the Women’s Action Forum (WAF) where she got a chance to practice her activism with great fervor.
‘Stand up for your rights as a daughter, sister, mother, wife and in any other role you play.I am a firm believer in gender equality,’ says Madeeha Gauhar
At a time when there were no means for expressing outrage concerning the so-called ‘amended’ laws made by Gen Zia, WAF organized rallies and protests. Madeeha, Faryal Gauhar, Rubina Saigol and Asma Jahangir and Hina Jilani were all at the receiving end of a brutal baton-charge. Madeeha was arrested and subsequently jailed twice at Kot Lakhpat. She also lost her job as lecturer. “Banning or arresting people is not a solution. Let all things flourish and give viewers the right to reject,” she says while remembering those days.“Ajoka Theatre emerged out of extreme diversity, anger and a fiery zeal to bring about change in 1984,” she says. The first play performed under its banner was Juloos (Procession), written by Badal Sircar. Due to the absence of the NoC (no objection certificate) from the government, which scrupulously examined every script through and through, the play, could not be performed in any public hall or auditorium. Therefore, it was performed in Begum Khadija Gauhar’s lawn in the Cantonment area of Lahore. Madeeha adds, “Our activities went undiscovered until the last portrayal of the week-long performances. They then banned the second play we were to perform at the venue. We then approached the ‘Max Mueller’ institute and the German institute accommodated us by lending us space to perform. In the meantime, I went abroad to get a Masters degree in theatre from the University of London.”Madeeha acquired a British Council scholarship for the degree in drama. It was a one-year course that amalgamated both the practical and academic sides of the subject. Madeeha feels that her experience was very useful as she had the chance to view a lot of theater there. She also met her future husband, writer Shahid Nadeem, for the very first time in London. He was working with Amnesty International after being pardoned from a jail term in Pakistan during Gen Zia’s era due to his trade union activities. He was a documentary producer at PTV Lahore centre at the time of his arrest.In London, Madeeha asked Shahid to do the script of a play, Mara Hua Kutta (The Dead Dog), directed by his late friend Shahryar Rashed. “I had seen the play at a Kinnaird College festival while still at school and it had left a lasting impression on my mind. At the time, Ajoka needed original scripts for stage plays, which I felt no one was delivering at that time, with the exception of Sarmad Sehbai. I did not want to rely on mere translations.” Shahid Nadeem ended up giving Madeeha scripts for two stage plays, Mara Hua Kutta and Barri. “Barri was one of the first plays on the issue of the Islamic laws and a patriarchal system. The play also raises questions about the class basis of the woman’s movement in Pakistan and its direction,” she says. It was initially performed on International Women’s Day in 1987.Madeeha and Shahid had both been married before. Savera Nadeem is Shahid Nadeem’s daughter from his previous marriage, who is now a successful stage and television actress. Nirvaan, now completing his A levels, is Madeeha’s son from her first marriage. From their marriage to each other, Shahid and Madeeha have a son, Sarang.According to one of the annual newsletters, Ajoka set the wheels turning with their ‘cultural marathon’ which also marked the ‘beginning of the theatre for social change movement in Pakistan’. Most of their plays have been on daring social issues such as dowry, honour killing and discriminatory laws. “My vision has always been to help promote a secular, just, humane and egalitarian society,” says Madeeha.“Some of the other prominent street and stage plays by Ajoka include Kala Qanoon which revolves around the Hudood Ordinance; Kala Meda Bhes which deals with a real-life incident in Sindh where a woman was exchanged for an ox and Dukhini which portrays the practice of women trafficking by deceiving Bangladeshi women living in rural areas to come to Pakistan,” she says. Shahid Nadeem has also done a Punjabi adaptation of Brecht’s Arturo UI in the play, Bala King.Madeeha has had to deal with the reality of women’s issues in her own backyard, so to speak. “Some of the girls that act in my plays have had to face a lot of hurdles and obstacles created by their families. In a few cases, I have had to watch some of the girls with great acting talent leave Ajoka as they could no longer bear the stress of family pressure and opposition.” Her message to women: “Stand up for your rights as a daughter, sister, mother, wife and in any other role you play. I am a firm believer in gender equality.”Ajoka has also contributed to Indo-Pak peace by collaborating with Indian theater groups. They managed to collectively put up an indo-Pak theater festival, Zonani, also held in Lahore in March 2004. Ajoka Children’s Theatre has done plays such as Gali Kay Bacchay (Children of the dead-end street), Kaali Ghata (Grey clouds), and Bhola.Madeeha is saddened by the fact that besides Ajoka there are not many other theatre groups emerging in Pakistan, especially since the possibilities for artistic expression is much greater now. “The environment is very encouraging. Motivation and freedom is a prerogative of an artist. Our collaboration with the government has been very successful. We have done two plays, Bullah and Bala King with the Arts Council. We can change the trend if the government pays the expenses of productions, provides facilities and pays actors.”For the future, Madeeha hopes to have many more performances in Pakistan and wants to attract all kinds of people to her plays. She feels she has done countless street plays already and would like to concentrate more on stage plays held in various auditoriums across Pakistan, theatre festivals and conferences. She is also looking to expand the management team for Ajoka, with the aim of projecting it further and on a wider scale, in print and electronic media.Madeeha confesses that Ajoka is her whole life and everything she does is related to it. “At times I feel I cannot even give my children enough time because of it.” She commends Shahid Nadeem for supporting her throughout her career. As our chat comes to a close, she tells me that she would be leaving for India soon as a few of Ajoka’s plays were being performed there. Ajoka is most certainly her entire life and would continue being so.

Music In Vogue

Music in Vogue
COVER STORY
Published in 'Nation On Campus' [The Nation]
January 4th, 2006

There has been a phenomenal growth in the electronic media industry in Pakistan and as a result this has had vast repercussions on the music industry and the society as a whole as well as on the youth in specific. Electronic media is defined as those communication mediums which are based on electronic or electromechanical means of production and most often distinguished from print media. The primary electronic media sources familiar to the general public worldwide include radio, sound recordings, television, video recording, and streaming internet content. Over the past few years, the industry in Pakistan has displayed an unprecedented boom in media outlets. This uprising has brought with it many challenges, but it has also created new opportunities for the evolving local music industry. This is a particularly ripe time to evaluate the relationship between electronic media and music promotion and their combined affect on society and the youth in particular.

Internationally, and especially in the developed countries, growth in the media industry has been going on for ages and remains one of the most vibrant sectors. What has caused the revolution in Pakistan’s media industry is the recent liberalization of media policy afforded by the government. As a result, television, radio and the internet have further seeped into our society with effects of paramount importance, whether positive or negative. Media and society now come together in a new way.

Music in Vogue
Music is in vogue in Pakistan and electronic media is its primary medium of communication. If one reviews the change that has taken place in the content of music in Pakistan, in the early days “Pop revolved around kurta-shalwar clad, flag hoisting singers with songs of love and patriotism”. This was perhaps a result of the socio-political turmoil that Pakistan was experiencing at the time. Next came the “Western” influence which translated in to some original and some copied tunes and beats. Today, however “we either sing about national lies or 'ishq'”. The time has come to take a good hard look at the “quality” of music being produced and move to more important “subjects” which are relevant for our youth today. Music videos and lyrics should be used to educate the youth on matters such as “drugs”, “depression”, “survival” rather than just “love”.

Music has always been a culturally strong influence in the sub-continent. Pakistan has moved from an inherently traditional form of music to a diversification of sounds, tunes, beats and melodies which has lead to an amalgamation of “new” music. This “new” music is now looking for fresh and innovative avenues through which it can reach the Pakistani Youth – its intended target market. The growth in the number of music TV and radio channels combined with the relaxation of government censorship rules is trying to do exactly this.

It’s Impact
TV is found to be the better medium for communication and promotion of music both in Pakistan and globally. The reason identified for this is the simultaneous audio and visual stimulation provided by TV to the youth. TV is a medium which people of all ages can watch; there is no way of preventing a certain group from watching. Thus, children, adolescents, and adults are equally exposed to the positive and negative aspects of this medium. Some of the benefits which are available to the youth today are:

An opportunity to identify with a specific genre of music
• An opportunity to follow the music careers of one’s favorite musicians/ singers
• Availability of a large amount of information pertaining to the local and global music scenes
• An opportunity to have an impact on music in Pakistan by requesting/ voting for a particular number
• An urge to take up music as a career

Stereotypes & Violence
Everything good usually also has a negative side to it. In this case, TV (music videos and lyrics) can represent an exaggerated version of an idea, concept or emotion (primarily love) which can play havoc with many young impressionable minds. Throughout the history of music in Pakistan, one can see how music has influenced the youth in terms of their dressing and behavior patterns. Music videos also have a tendency of supporting and representing conventional gender roles which can be emulated by the youth to their detriment. This is a form of “stereotyping” through music. Another cause of concern is the “violence” which is associated with the “hard rock” genre of music. Both the lyrics and beats of certain music videos/ songs can induce trance like states where one can become delusional and perhaps behave in a manner other than usual. “Head banging” is a phenomena which has begun at concerts in Pakistan and which sometimes gets out of hand and leads to the crowd becoming rowdy.

Portrayal of Gender Inequality

The misrepresentation of the male and female and their respective roles in society, shown in music videos and portrayed through lyrics is something almost everyone has noticed. Isn’t it uncanny how almost each and every music video shows the girl having certain, very so called “feminine” physical and emotional attributes? Why is the guy always chasing the girl? Or for that matter why does every music video have to tell a story of ‘Love’? Is this what media is trying to teach us? Is it trying to sensationalize the concept of love and portray it as the only kind of relationship possible between the two genders? The trend even today has been to show women as the weaker sex and an object of desire and beauty in music videos. Through out time it is the love songs that have been the most popular and it is about this one human emotion in particular that every artist has chosen to sing at one time or another. However inequality of the sexes always manages to seep through in the final message being sent to the viewer or listener.

What the youth thinks
The youth is very gung ho about the whole electronic media revolution which is taking place in Pakistan. They feel that all mediums have opened up new avenues for them to listen to and identify with various genres of music in Pakistan. They like the “interactive” aspect of modern day electronic media portrayal of music. Youth in Pakistan is becoming more confident of their likes and dislikes and they are glad that they have the forums for voicing their opinions. They feel as if they are making a difference.

However, it is essential for the media to be responsible in its dissemination of images and messages through music and to ensure that the youth is not confused about their identities as a result. Misrepresentations, stereotypes and other such negative portrayals should be avoided. The young minds that media targets are fragile and susceptible.


By Fariha Rashed.

Who Am I?

WHO AM I?
Published in 'Eyecandy [The Post]
September 25th, 2005
&
Published in 'Nation On Campus' [The Nation]
January 4th, 2006


I was just thinking the other day as I sat all alone watching the rain pouring down……who am I? Since that day I have not been able to get this question out of my head and it inspired me to write this piece. I realize that the question I have put forward to myself serves to be a rather queer one, but on several occasions, when I have really sat down to think, this question has automatically popped into my head as if it were waiting to be thought about. What I am striving to find out really, is why am I the personality that I am? Why do I walk, talk, laugh (and just about do anything) in a certain way? Could it have been ordained for me to be this way or did I make myself this way? I am sure many of you, especially the youngsters out there, have pondered over the same issue many a times when you were alone and had time to think. I am equally certain that after thinking about it for 5 minutes at the most, you quickly shoved it out of your mind and got busy with your daily chores, sensing that such ‘ridiculous’ thoughts are a waste of time and emotional energy. However, I believe we should let ourselves explore these unique thoughts a little further at times, so as to gage where they come from and why they make us so uncomfortable.

Sometimes in the middle of doing something, I stop dead in my tracks and unexpectedly get an overwhelming feeling of being trapped within myself. If you take away my body and brain from me, what would I be left with? Where would I go? Where would my personality go? I guess the real question is, does the brain make us who we are or do we have a soul that is floating around inside our exterior frame that moulds us a certain way? If you are a religiously inclined person then while reading this article, your first reaction will probably be something to the effect of: ‘Well God made me who I am and I should not question it so much’. Unfortunately it is not that simple for me. You see, I have always wanted to know why I think the way I do. What makes me react to something in a certain way? Yes of course…everybody would say ‘that is your personality’ but what boggles my mind is……where does THAT come from?

Even as a new born baby that had no understanding or experience of living in the world, I must have had my own set of traits. Every baby is different from the other. But how is that possible? I do not know or even remember what I was like when I was a child. Now isn’t that funny considering the fact that THAT child was also me? How can I not know what I used to do or say at a certain time period of my life? Why can’t I remember being born, taking my first step, saying my first word or tumbling down a flight of dangerous stairs at the age of five? When my mother recounts these stories of my childhood to me, it is like she is talking about another person I have no recollection of…a stranger.

Now as I sit here in a black leather chair comfortably writing this article, I wonder why I am writing the things that I am typing out with such speed and clarity of feeling. Where are these wondrous ideas emanating from? However, it is of no use for me to drive myself to the point of insanity with these thoughts, because there are no clear cut answers. I have been blessed with a body, a mind and two eyes through which to see the vastness of the world. I have been given ‘myself’ (whoever I am), so I should make full use of all these priceless gifts and live, simply because I have no choice.

However, as I bring my article to an end I want to send an important message to everyone who may or may have not experienced the ‘who am I’ syndrome. Never stop questioning things. It is your basic human right to probe into each and every situation or idea that you do not fully understand. Do not stop asking questions till you are satisfied with the answers. If you ever doubt something about your own personality or thought process, sit down and talk it out with yourself. This is the best way to clear your mind and know yourself better in the process. Don’t be ashamed of your confusion or uncertainties…..trust yourself completely and once you are able to do that, I guarantee that nothing in this world will ever be a puzzle to you anymore.


By: Fariha Rashed

Revolutionizing Fashion

Revolutionizing Fashion
Printed in 'Nation On Campus' [The Nation]
4th January, 2006

The Maria.B website states that “MARIA.B DESIGNS (PVT) LTD is the largest manufacturer and retailer of women's fashion garments in Pakistan” [http://www.mariab.com]. Following is an intimate interview with Maria in which we discuss her impressive and successful career over a cup of hot steaming ‘kashmiri chai’ at her house in Lahore.

1. What is your qualification as a designer?

I graduated from Pakistan School of Fashion Design [PSFD]. Before that I did my A Levels from Karachi Grammar School. After fashion school I went straight into work.

2. When did you decide to create the label MARIA.B and why?

I decided in second year at PSFD. I didn’t want to start something from the home or do just bridal wear. I wanted to reach out to people and have fashion and street wear accessible to everybody.

3. Which countries besides Pakistan does MARIA.B cater to?

We have an Asian clientele whether it’s in the UK, US, Netherlands, Pakistan or India for that matter. Not only that, but recently some people said that my clothes work very well for the Arab women because they want trendy stuff like bootleg pants and short shirts. That’s the market I especially want to expand into, the Muslim belt of countries.

4. What was it like to be the first Pakistani to win an international fashion competition?

It was surreal. I was a part of the first batch of PSFD students going to Belgium and I remember thinking to myself very casually “ok so we are just going to be one of the 50 countries there and probably won’t win anyway”. The experience was amazing though because I got selected to participate on the basis of my portfolio and the judges actually said that mine was the best portfolio they had seen so far.

5. How has winning that competition helped you since?

It made a difference in the beginning because it gave me a lot of confidence. I thought if I can win by going to Belgium and competing with students from fashion schools from all over the world and make my own impact in the process, then I can do anything. It gave me a high and encouraged me to start something of my own. If you look at the Pakistani fashion industry, unfortunately people just want to play achievement down and they want to discourage anyone who is successful. There are these older designers that are just hanging onto their ‘glory’ and when I first came in to the scene they wanted to literally rip me apart.

6. What wide range of garments does MARIA.B offer to women?

I do everything from casuals, semi-formal party wear, formals to bridals. The casuals and formals include the prĂȘt a porter [ready to wear] line and then the couture [high fashion] bridal line is totally separate. I did Western wear for a while but that’s not my particular clientele. My clientele would occasionally wear the sleeveless or short shirt but 85% of them wouldn’t. When one is catering to a large group of people, these restrictions do creep in and they should be taken as a challenge. When you’re retailing in the market as a designer you can’t afford to make choices for the client. You have to give your client what they want otherwise you fail.

7. What is MARIA.B’s design philosophy?

My design philosophy is generally centered on my belief in fusion. I am a big believer in the fusion and gelling together of Eastern and Western influences so that I can come up with something that is internationally viable. The designing however should not be overbearingly Western or overbearingly Eastern. There needs to be a perfect balance..

8. Who does the make-up and grooming for most of your shoots?

The two or three make-up artists that I have worked with are all fabulous and I choose them according to the nature of the shoot. I have a good idea now about which make-up artist [or photographer for that matter] would do well with which theme.

9. How important do you think it is for a designer to have photo shoots appear in magazines/publications regularly? Why?

It is extremely important because as a designer I am selling an image. It is a form of marketing and because we have always put so much stress on this aspect of marketing ourselves, the Maria.B label has become a big name in just two years. We actually built our brand through the shoots and now a Maria.B shoot is recognized instantly by people.

10. How have you grown as a designer in the last four years?

I have learnt a lot. When I was in college I had these huge dreams and I told myself I would make all kinds of clothes and be very experimental but now I know it doesn’t work. You have to create what sells and I learnt that the hard way. At the end of the day market forces are what drive the designer. You have to make your mark and give your clothes that special edge within the confines of those forces.

11. Which is your most memorable fashion show and why?

It is the Paris collection because the scale was very big and I hardly get to show Western clothes in Pakistan. My whole Paris collection was made up of Western wear. I enjoyed it for the freedom I had.

12. Do you think an education in fashion is absolutely necessary for a designer?

Yes, pretty much. Aesthetically I don’t think anyone can teach you anything. Either you have it or you don’t. However, if as a designer I am not technically educated then the stitcher, cutter and other people that work for me will not respect me as a designer and I won’t be able to guide them properly. They would take me for a ride if I didn’t know anything about the technicality of making a garment.

13. Do you have an accessory line?

I have started an accessory line and I have hired a girl for that. She has studied Accessory Design from FIT in the States. We have a completely separate accessory department with shoes and bags now.

14. Do you think having an online presence is important for designers?

Yes it is and although we have a website I have neglected it. I don’t have the time and I need people to manage it. A lot of our customers wanted us to have online sales but I have not gotten to that yet as far as an e-service is concerned where the customer can just click on the garment they want and choose the size.

By: Fariha Rashed